A Week in Wales: Discovering Celtic Heritage and Breathtaking Landscapes

Wales may be compact, but this proud Celtic nation packs an extraordinary amount of beauty, history, and culture into its borders. Often overlooked in favor of its larger neighbors, Wales offers travelers a unique blend of dramatic landscapes, living traditions, and warm hospitality. I recently spent a week traversing this captivating country, from the rugged peaks of Snowdonia to the spectacular coastline of Pembrokeshire, and discovered a land that feels both ancient and vibrantly alive.

Day 1: Arriving in North Wales - Conwy and Its Medieval Marvels

My Welsh adventure began in the medieval walled town of Conwy, just across the border from England. Approaching from the east, I was immediately struck by the silhouette of Conwy Castle, one of Europe's finest surviving medieval fortifications. Built by Edward I in the 13th century as part of his campaign to conquer Wales, the castle now stands as a testament to the country's complex history of resistance and resilience.

After checking into a charming B&B within the town walls, I spent the afternoon exploring the castle's impressive towers and battlements. The views from the top are spectacular, with the mountains of Snowdonia rising to the south and the Conwy Estuary flowing into the Irish Sea to the north. What struck me most was how the castle dominates the townscape even after eight centuries, its dark stone walls seeming to grow organically from the rock beneath.

As evening approached, I wandered through Conwy's narrow streets, eventually finding myself at The Albion, a traditional pub serving Welsh ales and hearty food. Here I had my first taste of cawl, a traditional Welsh stew typically made with lamb and root vegetables. The friendly locals at the next table were quick to strike up a conversation, proudly sharing stories about their town's history and recommending places to visit during my stay.

Day 2: Snowdonia National Park - Scaling Wales' Mighty Heights

No visit to North Wales would be complete without experiencing Snowdonia National Park, home to the country's highest peak, Mount Snowdon (or Yr Wyddfa in Welsh). Rather than taking the tourist railway to the summit, I opted for the Pyg Track, one of the more moderate hiking routes to the top.

Setting out early from the Pen-y-Pass car park, I joined fellow hikers on the well-marked trail. The route gradually revealed increasingly dramatic vistas of jagged ridges, deep valleys, and glistening lakes. About halfway up, the clouds that had been threatening all morning briefly parted, revealing Snowdon's summit still some distance above. The final ascent was challenging but rewarding, with each step bringing new perspectives on this ancient landscape.

At the summit (1,085 meters), I found myself above a sea of clouds, with occasional glimpses of the landscape below through breaks in the mist. Despite the busy visitor center at the top (accessible by the Snowdon Mountain Railway), there was a palpable sense of achievement among those who had climbed up. A local guide later told me that according to Welsh mythology, the summit is the burial place of the giant Rhita Gawr, defeated by King Arthur.

The descent offered different but equally stunning views, and by late afternoon, I had reached the picturesque village of Beddgelert. This charming settlement is named after the legend of Gelert, a faithful hound whose grave is marked just outside the village. After the physical exertion of the day, the comfort of a traditional Welsh tea with bara brith (fruit bread) in a riverside café was particularly welcome.

Day 3: Portmeirion and the Lleyn Peninsula - Mediterranean Dreams and Celtic Reality

My third day brought one of Wales' most unique attractions: the fantastical village of Portmeirion. Created by eccentric architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis between 1925 and 1975, Portmeirion is a colorful homage to Mediterranean architecture, dramatically juxtaposed against the Welsh landscape. Walking through its pastel-colored buildings, ornate gardens, and quirky decorative elements feels like stepping into another world—or perhaps the surreal 1960s TV series "The Prisoner," which was filmed here.

After spending the morning exploring Portmeirion's whimsical corners, I drove west to the Lleyn Peninsula, a finger of land pointing into the Irish Sea. This less-visited region retains a distinctly Welsh character, with the Welsh language widely spoken in its small communities.

At Aberdaron, a former pilgrimage stop at the peninsula's western tip, I walked along clifftop paths offering spectacular views of Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli). Known as the "Island of 20,000 Saints," this remote outcrop was an important religious site in medieval times. Today, it's a nature reserve home to thousands of seabirds and grey seals.

In the evening, I stayed at a family-run inn where the owner, Gwyn, proudly pointed out that the dinner menu was written in Welsh first, with English translations following. Over a meal of locally caught sea bass, he explained how the region has become a stronghold for Welsh language and culture. "When my parents were young, they were punished for speaking Welsh at school," he told me. "Now we have Welsh-medium schools and a thriving arts scene in our language."

Day 4: Crossing Mid-Wales - Mining Heritage and Literary Connections

The journey south through Mid-Wales revealed a different side of the country—less dramatic perhaps than Snowdonia, but with a quiet beauty of rolling hills, river valleys, and small market towns. I stopped at Machynlleth, a town with deep connections to Welsh history as the site of Owain Glyndŵr's parliament in 1404 during his rebellion against English rule.

Further south, I visited the Centre for Alternative Technology near Corris, a working demonstration of sustainable living established in a former slate quarry. This seemed fitting in a region shaped by its industrial past, where communities were built around mining and quarrying industries that have now largely disappeared.

By late afternoon, I reached Aberystwyth, a seaside university town and cultural hub. Walking along its Victorian promenade as the sun began to set, I was treated to one of Wales' most magical natural spectacles—the starling murmuration. Thousands of these small birds swirled in mesmerizing patterns above the pier before roosting for the night.

Dinner that evening was at a restaurant showcasing modern Welsh cuisine. The chef's creative use of local ingredients—laverbread (seaweed) with fresh seafood, Welsh black beef, and artisanal cheeses—demonstrated how contemporary Wales honors its culinary traditions while looking forward.

Day 5: The Pembrokeshire Coast - Where Land Meets Sea in Dramatic Fashion

The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park in southwest Wales offers some of Britain's most spectacular coastal scenery. I based myself in St. Davids, Britain's smallest city (due to its magnificent cathedral), which makes a perfect hub for exploring the surrounding coastline.

Following sections of the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, I was continually amazed by the diversity of the landscapes—from wide sandy beaches at Newgale to the dramatic volcanic headland at St. Davids Head, from the natural harbor at Solva to the perfectly formed geological marvel of the Green Bridge of Wales.

A highlight was a boat trip to Ramsey Island, a RSPB nature reserve separated from the mainland by the treacherous waters of Ramsey Sound. The island's towering cliffs host nesting seabirds, while Atlantic grey seals lounged on rocky beaches below. The boatman, a local fisherman whose family had worked these waters for generations, pointed out porpoises feeding in the sound and shared tales of shipwrecks and smugglers.

Returning to St. Davids as evening fell, I toured the cathedral built in a hollow to hide it from marauding Vikings, its purple-hued stonework glowing in the setting sun. Next door, the ruins of the medieval Bishop's Palace spoke to the religious significance of this remote corner of Wales, named after the nation's patron saint.

Day 6: Castles and Coastlines - Exploring Pembrokeshire's Historic Defenses

Pembrokeshire is castle country, with more fortifications per square mile than almost anywhere in Europe. My day began at Pembroke Castle, an impressive Norman fortress and birthplace of Henry VII, founder of the Tudor dynasty. Unlike many ruined castles, Pembroke remains remarkably intact, its massive round keep dominating the walled town that grew around it.

From Pembroke, I drove to the coastal village of Manorbier, where a more modest but beautifully situated castle overlooks a broad sandy bay. The 12th-century writer Gerald of Wales, who was born here, described it as "the pleasantest spot in Wales," and it's hard to disagree with his assessment.

In the afternoon, I visited Carew Castle, which showcases the evolution of defensive architecture from a medieval fortress to an Elizabethan mansion. Adjacent to the castle stands Carew Tidal Mill, the only restored tidal mill in Wales, harnessing the power of the tides for over 800 years.

As the day drew to a close, I found myself in Tenby, a picture-perfect walled town perched above gorgeous beaches. Its colorful harbor houses are frequently featured on Welsh tourism materials, and with good reason. Walking the narrow streets as the evening light painted the pastel buildings gold, I felt I'd discovered the essence of coastal Wales.

Day 7: Cardiff - Where Ancient and Modern Wales Converge

My final day brought me to Cardiff, the capital city that perfectly encapsulates the contrasts of contemporary Wales. In the morning, I explored Cardiff Castle, where 2,000 years of history are layered upon one another: Roman walls, a Norman keep, medieval fortifications, and the extraordinarily opulent Victorian Gothic revival mansion created by architect William Burges.

Just a short walk away, the National Museum Cardiff offered insights into Welsh art, natural history, and archaeology. The gallery of Impressionist paintings (one of the finest in Britain) includes works by Monet, Renoir, and Cézanne, while the natural history section tells the story of Wales from its formation 900 million years ago to the present day.

After lunch in Cardiff Bay—once the world's busiest coal port, now a vibrant waterfront district—I visited the Wales Millennium Centre, an architectural marvel whose façade features words by Welsh poet Gwyneth Lewis in both Welsh and English: "Creating truth like glass from the furnace of inspiration" and "In these stones horizons sing."

For my final evening, I attended a performance by a male voice choir, perhaps the most iconic expression of Welsh cultural identity. The harmonies of songs like "Calon Lân" (A Pure Heart) and "Myfanwy" seemed to capture something essential about the Welsh character—passionate yet dignified, deeply connected to tradition while embracing the future.

Reflections on a Week in Wales

As I prepared to leave Wales the following morning, I reflected on what makes this small nation so distinctive. Perhaps it's the enduring strength of Welsh culture and language—the oldest living language in Europe—which has survived centuries of political domination. Perhaps it's the dramatic landscapes, where human history and natural beauty are so profoundly intertwined. Or perhaps it's the warmth of Welsh hospitality, experienced in every B&B, pub, and chance encounter throughout my journey.

What's certain is that Wales deserves more than its occasional status as an afterthought in UK travel itineraries. In just one week, I'd experienced medieval splendor and contemporary creativity, mountain grandeur and coastal beauty, ancient traditions and forward-looking sustainability.

The Welsh have a word—hiraeth—that defies easy translation. It suggests a homesickness for a place that may never have been your home, a longing for something lost or perhaps never possessed. As my train crossed back into England, I understood the meaning of hiraeth a little better, already feeling a pull to return to this magical corner of Britain where the past remains so vibrantly alive in the present.